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About Pearls
The pearl is the only gem that comes from
a living creature.
Cultured pearls are a natural product, produced by a
mollusk in the same way natural pearls are produced
but with the help of science. As natural pearls were
becoming extinct, the Chinese were perfecting
techniques to raise and produce cultured pearls, also
called cultivated pearls. China is now the world
leader in the production of both freshwater and
saltwater varieties.
As new implantation techniques were applied, near
round to very round cultured pearls are becoming much
more common. They occur in a wide range of colors,
including white, gray, and pastel shades. The finest
are exceedingly beautiful, many of which are
all nacre (the crystalline substance which the
mollusk secretes around the foreign object that forms
a pearl) exhibiting a very rich luster. Sizes
ranging from 6-9 millimeter are becoming the norm,
and pearls reaching 15 millimeters are now being
produced.
Some imitation pearls can be very convincing; even
being mistaken for fine cultured pearls. One easy,
reliable test is the "tooth test." Run the pearl
gently along the edge of your teeth. The genuine
pearl will have a gritty feel like feeling the sand
at the seaside while the imitation will be slippery
smooth. Of course, the other way to ensure you are
buying genuine pearls is to purchase them from a
reputable source such as,
The Pearl
Strand
What's the difference between natural and cultured
pearls?
Natural pearls are formed when irritants, such as a
piece of sand, enter the oyster by accident. Since
this is a fairly rare occurrence, few all-natural
jewelry quality pearls become available. Cultured
pearls are formed by the use of science along with
man's help inserting the item within the mollusk,
which will eventually produce the pearl.
Shape
A quality evaluation, describing the shape of
a pearl. Round is the most prized shape in the
industry, but saltwater and freshwater pearls are
produced in a variety of shapes, just as they exhibit
a variety of colors. Pearls can be divided into four
basic shape categories: round, off round, oval. and
teardrop, (semi-baroque and baroque are considered
off round and can be very asymmetrical).
Size
Pearls are measured across their diameter in
millimeters. All things being equal, the larger the
pearl, the more rare it is and the more valuable.
Necklace Lengths
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Collar: A pearl necklace that is 10 to 13
inches in length.
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Choker: A pearl necklace that is 16 to 18
inches in length.
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Matinee: A pearl necklace that is 20 to
24 inches in length.
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Opera: A pearl necklace that is 28 to 32
inches in length.
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Princess: A pearl necklace that is 17 to
19 inches in length.
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Rope: A pearl necklace over 45 inches in
length.
Pearl Types
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Abalone Pearl: A naturally cultivated
pearl from an abalone.
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Conch Pearl: Similar in color to pink
coral, these pearls are produced by a conch,
which is a saltwater mollusk from tropical
waters.
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Cultured Pearl: (also "Cultivated Pearl")
A pearl grown in a mollusk that has been
surgically implanted with an irritant through
human intervention.
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Freshwater Cultured Pearl: A cultured
pearl cultivated in a freshwater mollusk.
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Saltwater Cultured Pearl: A cultured
pearl cultivated in a oyster or mollusk.
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Imitation Pearl: Man or machine-made.
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Mabe Pearl: A dome-shaped cultured pearl
cultivated on the inner shell of a mollusk
rather than within its body.
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South Sea Cultured Pearl: Ranging in hues
of white, gold, silver, cream and champagne,
these cultured pearls are quite large and are
cultivated in the white-lip oyster.
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Tahitian Cultured Pearl: Cultured pearls
cultivated in the black-lip oyster found in
French Polynesia, and producing pearls in
natural tints of black, silver, gray, green,
orange, gold, blue and purple.
Descriptive Terms
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Baroque: A cultured pearl that is
asymmetrical and free form in shape.
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Blemish: A defect found on the surface of
the pearl. Non-damaging blemishes include spots,
bumps, pits and wrinkles, and can affect a
pearl's price. Damaging blemishes, which may
worsen, and can affect the durability of a pearl
as well as its price, include cracks, holes and
chips.
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Button: A dome-shaped pearl with a flat
bottom.
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Circles: Concave, concentric rings on a
pearl's surface.
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Color: An evaluation of quality used to
describe the color of a pearl.
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Grafting: The insertion, through human
intervention, of an irritant into the body or
the mantle tissue of a mollusk, in order to
produce a cultured pearl.
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Sorting: Separating pearls by surface,
shape, color and size prior to the jewelry
matching process.
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Surface: A quality evaluation of the
amount of blemishes on a pearl, ranging from
clean to heavily blemished.
Pearls are endlessly fascinating for their variety of
colors, shapes, and origins. They have long been
considered one of the most romantic jewelry gifts.
Factors to consider when purchasing pearls
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Luster: The combination of surface shine
and the depth of inner light refraction in a
pearl. Luster is one of the great determinants
of a pearl's quality.
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Mantle Tissue: The layer of thin tissue
adhering a mollusk to its inner shell.
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Matching: Using luster, surface, shape,
color and size to match one pearl with another
to create a piece of pearl jewelry, such as a
necklace.
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Millimeter: The metric measurement used
to determine the size of a pearl. One mm equals
1/25 of an inch.
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Nacre: A calcium carbonate-based
crystallinesubstance secreted by a mollusk as a
defensive device against the intrusion of a
foreign irritant into its body.
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Nucleus: A small bit of polished shell
from an American freshwater mollusk used as an
irritant and inserted into the body of a
saltwater mollusk. By the same token, a small
bit of soft mantle tissue from one freshwater
mussel is inserted as an irritant into the body
of another freshwater mollusk.
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Nucleation: Also called grafting or
implementation, this is the process of inserting
an irritating nucleus into the body of a mollusk
so that it will secrete nacre to cover it,
consequently producing a cultured pearl.
Caring for pearls
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Avoid contact with harmful substances such as
hair spray, perfumes, bleach, ammonia and
chemical cleaners.
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Wipe pearls gently with a warm damp cloth before
storing to remove body oil.
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Wash in a mild liquid detergent and dry with a
soft cloth.
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Polish a damaged pearl to restore luster.
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Store in separate pouch.
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